Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood, Reviewed
By Nick Blevins
Photographs courtesy of Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood
I began downstairs, at a late afternoon-lit table near the bar with a French 75; crisp champagne, tart citrus, and gin playfully washed away the summer heat assailing my senses only moments before. From our comfortable, well-positioned seats, my companion and I took in our surroundings: the artwork in various styles adorning the restaurant’s walls and the deep, warm tones throughout that contributed to my increasing sense of well-being. Perched happily, we watched tourists and fellow San Antonians saunter down the path outside, past the historic Majestic Theatre. A beat later, our attention was subsequently seized by the arrival of our appetizer, the delightfully-savory, pleasingly-sticky Korean chicken lollipops.
That would prove to be a running theme for the evening: each dish at Bohanan’s Prime Steaks and Seafood commanded one’s full attention, and the flavors kept it transfixed.
Following the appetizers, we took the elevator up to the expansive second floor dining room, where the gustatory exploration continued. Sat at our new table, the soft glow of the theatre marquee through the large window nearby framed our next courses: a satisfyingly-rich veal stock, three-cheese (which I had removed, sorry) French onion soup featuring duck fat-fried croutons, and a creamy, tangy, anchovy-adorned caesar salad. A chilled glass of lemon sorbet cleansed our palates shortly after, and served as the perfect intermezzo before our entrees arrived.
I marveled as the macadamia-crusted snapper with candied orange butter sauce that was placed before my companion began to disappear with increasing fervor. Every dish that evening had been deliciously distinct, so it made sense. However, it was the moment that I bit into my entree, an A5 Miyazaki Wagyu steak with a texture so unbelievably tender, and a flavor so pronounced yet masterfully-balanced, that I understood: the fine folks at Bohanan’s are not playing. There were no happy accidents within those walls, only pure, culinary competence; and it was a delight.
Depending on your tastes, Bohanan’s has even more in store. Informative, vertical wine tastings allow for the understanding of a particular vintage over time, while their horizontal tastings showcase the characteristics of different terroirs (the broad combination of regional factors that contribute to a wine’s flavor). If you’re just looking for a single glass, they can assist you in finding something special among their five hundred fifty selections.
The food is phenomenal. The decor is tasteful. Even if you’ve not been to Bohanan’s yet, located in the beating heart of downtown along Houston street, you’ve likely heard the name, and for good reason. Owned and operated by the man himself since opening in 2002, Chef Mark Bohanan and his team have seen that every single aspect of the dining experience is well-considered, further underscored by extensive renovations throughout the building and even into the courtyard beyond, instigated in response to our city’s – and the restaurant’s – ever-increasing profile. In an industry with such notoriously-thin margins, it can feel naive to call a restaurant an institution. But if any restaurant has put in the time, the consistent attention, and the creativity necessary to be considered one, look no further. ■
Valet parking is available, and a reservation is definitely the way to go.
For information on their menu, store, and more, visit bohanans.com.
